The restaurant industry may be in deep crisis, but you feel it less in the world of fine dining: since our last Time Out update, no high-cuisine restaurants have closed, the super-fine-dining niche is gaining momentum despite the hefty price tag, and if these are the last days of Pompeii, at least they taste amazing
In the past two years we’ve struggled to find new ways to explain just how much the local food scene is in crisis, but in the realm of luxury restaurants the trend is different. After tallying the culinary game of musical chairs chefs have been playing this year, we discovered the list actually includes more successful upscale restaurants now than it did last year. Which suggests that in fine dining there’s relative stability – if not cautious growth.
Who knew? Turns out people still want to spend good money (and not a little of it) to eat, briefly, at dream level – and maybe pretend for one fleeting second that we live in a normal country where one can fuss over crystalline basil. Who would’ve thought. Our goal in spotlighting outstanding restaurants is to support an industry in distress, but we live in the real world, and especially now it’s clear that too many people can’t afford (or don’t feel comfortable) spending so much on a luxury meal. So the Time Out list is arranged by pricing tier – from expensive, to very expensive, to insanely expensive. Whether it’s worth it is up to you, but in our opinion these are the places that won’t let you down.
>> עוד יהיה טופ: 26 מסעדות הפיין דיינינג הכי מומלצות בתל אביב
Expensive
OPA
No one raises an eyebrow anymore when chef Shirel Berger collects international awards for a kitchen with zero animal protein. The instinct is to file OPA under vegan, but in fact it’s an atelier that honors agricultural produce and treats it as art – and that’s the lens through which it should be judged. The menu adheres strictly to the seasons, and every fruit and vegetable gets an innovative, original interpretation. To paraphrase: there may be prettier ones, but none as beautiful.
OPA. 8 Ha’Halutzim, Tel Aviv
Abie + DOK
Locality and seasonality are the shared values of the Doctor brothers’ two restaurants, each with its own spin. Abie is a shark in red mullet scales – a simple-looking spot with a quietly excellent restaurant humming inside. Chef Avishag Levy leads a kitchen that pays due respect to fish and seafood, giving them the right stage to shine with explosive flavors and clever little sparks. DOK, in its role as chef Assaf Doctor’s lab, uses different raw materials but heads in a similar direction: cultivation and foraging traditions and a fierce devotion to the yield of the land, translated into a modest yet dazzling culinary journey.
Abie, DOK. 16 Lincoln / 27 Ibn Gabirol, Tel Aviv
Hotel Montefiore
Every time we return to Hotel Montefiore – and we’ve returned often – we can’t help but marvel at the well-oiled, elegant hospitality machine, the terrific, unfussy food, and the consistently high standard. It’s an anomaly on the local scene: a fine dining experience with European chic that’s hard to come by here, certainly not with such long-term consistency. The subtle changes chef Barak Hasson has introduced over time (and through a pandemic and a war) keep Hotel Montefiore dynamic, relevant, and firmly entrenched as one of Tel Aviv’s most special restaurants.
Hotel Montefiore, 36 Montefiore, Tel Aviv
Thai House
For nearly 30 years, Thai House has managed to keep the level, the vibe – and most importantly – the punchy, authentic flavors that conjure distant places with blue seas and a foot massage on the beach. Their devotion to ingredients extends to vegetables from a farm that works with the restaurant and to making their own coconut milk – small yet crucial details that have turned the place into an institution. In the private room, Khoa Khun Lek (“Mrs. Lek’s Kitchen,” chef Lek is the wife of owner Yariv Malili), the Thai-ness goes even more hardcore, with a structured tasting menu that honors traditional Thai cooking from the villages, festive dishes, and ingredients you’ve likely never tasted before.
Thai House. 8 Bograshov, Tel Aviv
Mashya
“So how’s the food at Mashya? In a word: fantastic. In a sentence: so good, we ordered the same dish twice. Twice! I mean, everything was great, but twice during the meal a dish landed on the table that was so good, so delicious, so wow! that all we wanted was to taste it again. That’s how successful Mashya’s food is,” wrote our critic Shir (full details here). Since then the balance of power has shifted: Arish stepped down at the end of December and none other than Gil Dahan, formerly chef of Chena, took the helm. The culinary direction will naturally change, but it’s reasonable to assume Mashya will keep its place on our list, given Dahan’s track record.
Mashya, 5 Mendele Mocher Sfarim, Tel Aviv
Santi
And we’re still with Guy Arish, who after Mashya is focusing on Santi, a place that’s officially a wine bar but everything about it screams fine dining: a serious, impressive approach to alcohol – especially wine – service that truly cares, a abroad vibe (though you can show up in flip-flops), and food to match. Arish draws inspiration from Japan and Scandinavia and keeps a finger on the pulse of global gastronomy while developing a style that’s distinctly his. With a gentle yet assured hand, he creates food that’s different and intriguing – accessible during happy hour even if your flip-flops are Crocs, not Prada.
Santi, 17 Gordon, Tel Aviv
Treysar
After a challenging, hard-working first year, Treysar graduates from our casual list to fine dining. A restaurant that at first bent its cooking to fit a concept changed course, and chef Aner Ben Rafael-Foreman’s kitchen has become more refined and nuanced, as evidenced by the “Magic Years” menu. The search for sources of inspiration to reinforce the local-seasonal theme is reflected in original, unconventional dishes, and even if the level isn’t always uniform – the thinking and the overall packaging clearly point to fine dining. Treysar is taking the road less traveled, and the story it brings is one of a kind on the city’s landscape.
Treysar. Tel Aviv Port, Hangar 12, Tel Aviv
Very expensive
a
Since its fanfare opening, a has proven there’s real substance here – it’s not just a pretty face. Chef Yuval Ben Neriah and his team work magic with sauces, ferments, and special ingredients, with ambition and finesse that only keep rising. When the Michelin Guide finally makes it here sometime after the war, a is a sure bet for a star. About two months ago, Ben Neriah launched a lunch at a, letting you revel in the restaurant’s mind-bending quality at friendlier prices.
a. 121 Derech Menachem Begin, Tel Aviv
OCD
After many months of hiatus, OCD returned to reclaim its spot at the top of Israel’s dining scene – sharper and more mature than before. Despite the 685 NIS price tag per diner, it’s not easy to get a seat, and the transfer market is buzzing. What that says about us – FOMO, stress-release, or an eat-drink-for-tomorrow-we-die mood – we haven’t decided. Either way, chef Raz Rahav deserves credit for insisting on high, uncompromising gastronomy in our small, mustachioed country.
OCD. 17 Tirza, Noga neighborhood, Jaffa
Bar 51
It’s not exactly a restaurant and not quite a bar. Call it a gastro-bar and it might answer, but Bar 51 is much more – a creative studio for chef Moshiko Gamlieli (Mona), set in a soulful, atmospheric space. The menu suits the mood: fresh fish crudo and sashimi with local accents, delicate pastas, and plates that shepherd your drink into realms of tingling, greedy satisfaction.
Bar 51, 59 HaYarkon, Tel Aviv
HaBasta
Market look, Michelin taste: this minimalist spot on the edge of Carmel Market may not look or feel like fine dining, but it gathers coveted seasonal ingredients and ideas collected on rambles in Israel and abroad, weaving them into a slightly tipsy, full-of-passion experience for cooking and gastronomy in all its shades – a full-on Slow Food mirror, with a wine list that makes its real intentions clear.
HaBasta, 4 HaShomer, Tel Aviv
Darya
After chef Hillel Tavakuli stepped down in July, Ronen Eliyahu – who had been acting chef – stepped in, aiming to preserve the reputation Darya has earned since opening: a kosher restaurant that leaves everyone who walks in (even the especially ruthless critics) stunned by the depth of flavor. The food traditions along the Silk Road are translated into a menu that elegantly connects Persian, Bukharan, and neighboring cuisines with modern techniques – A Thousand and One Nights, culinary edition – without letting kashrut get in the way.
Darya. 205 HaYarkon, Tel Aviv
Taizu
Chef Yuval Ben Neriah’s veteran Asian restaurant offers a colorful, punchy personal interpretation of Eastern classics, always leaving room for surprises and innovations. So even when you’re eating a Shanghai dumpling for the thousandth time, the taste still dazzles like the first. A place that shows this kind of consistency and rigor deserves every bit of praise. Taizu isn’t just a blue chip – it’s a unicorn.
Taizu. 23 Derech Menachem Begin, Tel Aviv
Yafo-Tel Aviv
Despite chef Haim Cohen’s status as a mega-celebrity, it’s hard to deny the sincerity of his intentions, which continues to shine through his work over the years. Yafo–Tel Aviv, now marking 13 years, reflects Cohen’s starting point: his mother’s Orfali cooking, layered with European influences picked up over time. From the tabun at the heart of the room come dishes that pluck at the heartstrings – a kitchen free of cynicism and cleverness, aiming to nourish diners with warm feelings via crab gnocchi and shishbarak (you’ll find it on our list of iconic dishes). Cohen’s new kosher restaurant, Maryam, has set itself a high bar – we’ll soon decide if it meets it and joins this list.
Yafo-Tel Aviv. 98 Yigal Alon, Tel Aviv
Milgo & Milbar
Chef Moti Titman brings knowledge amassed in France and New York and deep experience in complex kitchen work, turning out dishes that are intensely flavorful and wildly sexy. You can spend a delightful evening at the counter facing the open kitchen – watching the cooks and eagerly waiting for the next great plate to land. The place’s DNA dictates hard work and complex processes, but none of that weighs down the experience. In vibe and service, Milgo & Milbar stays light, cool, and un-intimidating – a combo that makes for a fun spot with fantastic food.
Milgo & Milbar. 142 Rothschild, Tel Aviv
Hudson
This veteran New York-style steakhouse is a consensus pick when it comes to meat: prime cuts, dry-aged in a giant fridge and grilled with the kind of skill that delivers the perfect carnivorous bite. The price is, naturally, very high – but great beef costs money.
Hudson. 27 HaBarzel, Tel Aviv
Pastel
Since opening over a decade ago, Pastel has gone through several incarnations, some more successful than others. The arrival of chef Gal Ben Moshe (two Michelin stars for PRISM in Berlin) smoothed out the wrinkles and bestowed the coveted Michelin aura – fitting for its Tel Aviv Museum location. Meticulous attention to detail in both kitchen and floor is impressive, and the delicate flavors reflect a calm elegance so often missing from our Israeli reality. Recently, a younger, sexier sibling called Grace opened next door, where Ben Moshe juggles even faster than usual (with prices to match).
Pastel. 27 Sha’ul HaMelech Blvd., Tel Aviv
Popina
Popina means “kitchen” in Latin. Here, the kitchen is the beating heart, with all attention fixed on what happens within. Chef Orel Kimchi serves elegant, timeless dishes on a menu divided by cooking methods: steaming, curing, grilling, slow-cooking, or baking. A pleasure. Not much has changed here over the years – and rightly so, because you don’t mess with bunker hits like the shrimp burger – but recently there was an earthquake when Kimchi refreshed the menu and added new, intriguing dishes after years of careful stasis. That’s Popina’s secret: a meeting that never disappoints between serious kitchen craft and a breezy atmosphere.
Popina. 3 Ahad Ha’am, Tel Aviv
Pereh
“With a menu that changes daily, allowing shifts and inventions on the fly – and with the sheer amount of talent already pouring out – there’s no doubt Pereh is going to be one of Tel Aviv’s busiest corners,” wrote our critic about this spot from Ruti Brodo alumni. Since then, Pereh has made good on the prediction, matching and raising with dishes that have already entered the local lexicon (stuffed fish wing), while keeping the freshness and originality of day one.
Pereh. 27 Nahalat Binyamin, Tel Aviv
Insanely expensive
R48
When the flagship restaurant at R2M’s luxury hotel opened, our critic crowned it a success and declared: “Once you realize it’s a great meal combined with a little hop abroad hosted by the perfect maître d’, it’s easily one of the best-value nights in town.” After a very long stretch closed since the war began, it recently reopened, delivering the high level – and high prices – you’d expect. You can trust Ruti Broudo and chef Ohad Salomon that the value is justified.
R48. 48 Rothschild, Tel Aviv
George & John
This decorated restaurant racked up awards under chef Tomer Tal, who announced at the end of last year that he was stepping down. Stepping into his shoes are chefs Elad Dagan and Tal Suhami (who closed the excellent Mansura for the move), and they’ve kept the momentum going – paying plenty of respect to what came before (including their take on the iconic crab pasta), while rolling out a fresh, refreshing menu and an exciting new culinary path. You have permission to take off.
George & John. 6 Auerbach, Tel Aviv
Hiba
Chef Yossi Shitrit does amazing things in his restaurant – and the roughly 15-course menu is just one of them. Beyond creative food rooted in tradition and childhood memories yet daring to soar, every detail at Hiba clearly aims for Michelin: from the welcome ritual, through handmade porcelain, to a small parting gift at the end. Bottom line: there aren’t many culinary experiences at this level in Israel.
Hiba. 144 Derech Menachem Begin, Tel Aviv
Toto
After renovations and the Covid hiatus, chef Yaron Shalev reopened Toto with a new design. On the other hand, oxtail tortellini, chestnut gnocchi, and other signature dishes stayed put—so as not to disturb the peace of mind of the one percent. What else happens in the chic room is anyone’s guess, since the website keeps FBI-level secrecy. If your budget allows, Toto is a stellar choice.
Toto, 4 Berkowitz, Tel Aviv
Pronto
At the end of last year, a big moment: chef David Frankel announced his departure from Pronto after 13 years. What’s happened since? As we reported in an interview with chef Ido Samuel Cohen – just 31 and a rising star on Tel Aviv’s culinary scene – Pronto is returning to risotto and high Italian cooking, doing it with the elegant quiet that has always defined it. We’re already hungry.
Pronto. 4 Herzl, Tel Aviv
Shila
What began as a pioneering gastro-bar by a young, talented, energetic chef has long since become one of the city’s most coveted restaurants. The menu is a celebration of fish and seafood, served on white tablecloths in a sexy, easygoing atmosphere that winks at well-heeled guests. With Shila’s move to its new Montefiore address, it leveled up into a dazzling fine-casual temple with lobster and oyster aquariums – and prices to match – justifying its permanent spot at the top of the city’s scene.
Shila. 9 Montefiore, Tel Aviv
&MOSHIK
The TV-famous chef is trying to transplant to central Tel Aviv the success of &MOSHIK, his two-Michelin-star Amsterdam restaurant that closed due to Covid. The style is classic – respect for history and tradition with a minimalist hand – and the menu follows suit, an elegant blend of global inspiration and local produce. The price is high, possibly the highest on the market right now – 800 NIS per person before alcohol and service. Still, opening an ambitious, luxe restaurant during the most complex period Israel has ever known is something only someone who truly loves the place they’re in can do – and for that, we tip our hat to Rot.
&MOSHIK. 4 Zvi Strchilvitz, Tel Aviv
